Sunday, November 15, 2015

Dani Andrada sends Chilam Balam 5.15b (9b)

Dani Andrada, whom if I had to choose, would be my first pick as a belayer in my personal climbing trips. 
Why? Because, before being a rad climber, he is a rad supporter! He is always up to help with other people's adventures. He gets psyched about your projects as much as he is about his own stuff! This is, I believe, what makes him such a great climber.

Our Spanish hero, born in 1975, is famous for climbing Heaps of 9+ / 5.15+ graded routes. He started climbing at age 13 and on his first day he managed to pull off a 5.11d (7a) which makes him a rare breed.


Andrada, the Maquina (the machine), has just bagged the 4th ascent of Chilam Balam, 5.15b (9b). His redpoint ascent came after after Fernandez (2003), Adam Ondra (2011) and Seb Bouin (2015).



Credit: Desnivel
It seems Andrada and Edu Marin had been working the route for ages and it was just a matter of time before they put all the pieces together. On his last attempt before the send, Dani broke a tufa off and got a gnarly cut just above his right eye. I guess the pain got him focused on getting back on the route and making it to the chains of this 80 meter route. Interestingly according to 8a.nu he got 25 hands off, knee bar rests. That’s ridiculous!

Edu Marin is still trying the route and he is very close. I believe he could be getting the 5th ascent anytime soon! We wish you good luck brother!




Seb Bouin on Chilam Balam 5.15b

Author : Vincent Kneeshaw